Theme Day: Contrast

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All Dressed Up

These two lucky pups I found on the cliffs at Bientang's Cave. The view they have is simply splendid, and attention is not in short supply. Happily wagging their tails at all passers-by, they nearly created a traffic jam on the narrow cliff path as everyone stopped to pat them. They donned all their finery, probably to comply with the restaurant's dress code?

There She Blows!

No, this is not Moby Dick but simply one of the friendly moms in the waters off the cliffs of the village. If you look closely, you can just make out the calf next to her. Yesterday there were about 9 moms & toddlers lulling about in the waters, it having been a real summer's day. Needles to say, the cliffs were packed with onlookers.

The Legend Of Bientang

In the heart of the best land-based whale watching village in the world, Bientang's Cave is situated below street level in an ancient cavern. Bientang was one of the last few Koi Strandlopers who lived in the cave at the turn of the 19th century. She lived off the sea and supplemented her diet with dassie, a small rodent that roams the cliffs. Bientang disappeared mysteriously, and to this day no-one knows what became of her ... Today operating as a restaurant, Bientang's makes for an extremely pleasant experience (albeit the steps to street level are especially steep and seems to last forever). Bientang's Cave is known the world over for their unusualness and splendid atmosphere.

Colour For Sale

A friendly stall in the flea market sells exquisite African art. The colourful display instantly attracts shoppers to have a closer look. The paintings are all original, by very talented local artists who make a living from the stall. This stall supports at least 5 families, who all contribute in one way or another - either painting, selling, setting up the stall etc. What a pleasure!

Lilies On The Cliff

The Arum Lilies, which grow wild in our area, are in bloom! All over the village you spot clusters of white lilies. This one grabbed hold of a ledge right on the cliff and started blooming. Proudly, the villagers are more inclined towards preservation than to vanity, and no one seems to pick them (even though they make a stunning display in a vase and lasts for weeks), contrary to what is happening in other areas: in Cape Town, when the lilies started blooming peddlers sold them at robots, until it was brought to the public's attention that it is in fact a crime to trade in wild flowers without a permit. Yes, we actually do have a law against picking wild flowers. In Afrikaans these lilies are called "varkore" (pigs' ears) because of their shape.

Village Square Waterfront Piazza

The old parking in front of FNB next to the flea market was upgraded this year. It will now be used as an extension to the existing flea market (which has also been upgraded). Here you can see the neat new lay-out with street lamps and all. It will be put into use at the start of this year's Whale Festival, and afterwards (rumours would have it) permanent stalls or little shops will be built on the site, while the flea market will move back from its temporary space at Gearings Point to its original place. By the way, the site of the flea market and this new site belongs to the council.

An Arty End

Hermanus seems to inspire the artist in us. Some start their art here, others bring their art here. Art in every form abounds, and Hermanus is probably one of the villages with the most studio's and galleries in the world. A particular concept I find very alluring is the open studio, where you can not only buy art but watch the artist commit his art. This beautiful ballustrade end belongs to one such a studio, where pottery is sold & made.

A Birdie In The Rough

Look closely, and what do you find? A partridge in the rough at the golf course. Lots of guinea fowl and partridges have made the outskirts of the gold course their home, and have been welcomed by all. When the fence was put up, special openings were made especially for them to easily exit the course in order to cross the road to the open field across to "graze". Very often cars crossing the road have to give right of way to a new mom and her young crossing.

Giraffe Stampede In Main Road!!!

Yes, it's official: a troop of tropical giraffes have stampeded down Main Road towards the crafts market, looking for loving new owners who would buy them and give them a loving home. These giraffes are hand-made by local craftsmen. Look at the exquisite details and the happy colours. Don't buy one, buy them all! Have a happy, colourful Monday!

The Spring The Schoolmaster Discovered

The main street of Hermanus, circa 1850. Hermanus was named after Hermanus Pieters, a schoolmaster from Caledon who wandered over the mountain looking for pasture for his sheep. He found a clear freshwater spring, and spread the word. Many farmers followed him, and later on came for holidays. The town that sprang up around the spring was named for the discoverer of the spring: Hermanuspietersfontein. Many years later the postmaster submitted a request that the name be shortened, as the long name of Hermanuspietersfontein proved to be a burden to him. His request was granted, and since then our beautiful village was known as Hermanus.

Festivalgoers

As if dropped off by a tourist bus, these whales came right up to the rocks. Arriving early to get the best seats in the house, they probably look forward to the upcoming festival in their honour which takes place in the village from 24 - 27 September this year. On second thought, are they the actual guests of honour or are they performers?

A Whale Of A Tale

The summer spectacular is in full swing. As if aware of the approaching whale festival which takes place from 24 - 27 September this year, this whale gave a performance to die for! Right off the cliffs, it felt as if you could simply reach out and touch its tail. A huge crowd of onlookers quickly gathered to enjoy the free show ... maybe a sneak preview of the magnitude of the tales we might expect at this year's festival?

Cry Me A Whale

It's almost time for the annual Whale Festival which takes place from 24 - 27 September this year. Today I bring you the ringer of sightings, Hermanus' very own Whale Crier. At the moment the only whale crier in the world, Hermanus shared this title with India for a while when they also had a whale crier. When a whale is sighted, the whale crier announces the sighting by blowing on his bamboo horn, contrary to popular belief that he actually calls the whales - well, that might be entirely possible what with the whales that have become so much part of the viallge, I wouldn't be surprised if these intelligent creatures had learned the call of the bamboo horn by now.

The Eagle Has Landed

The Eagle Has Landed! In this case, an Airforce Helicopter I don't know the exact name of. It looks like a practice run for the local sea rescue and fire fighting teams, but nonetheless enough of an unusualness to draw a huge crowd. Hermanus has a fire season, normally in high summer from January to March, when the slightest provocation such as a cigarette butt carelessly thrown out of a passing car window can result in a huge blaze and thousand of hectares of fynbos destroyed, not to mention the millions of rands of damage. However, fire is necessary for fynbos to thrive. Every year after a fire you see new species of fynbos that haven't been spotted for years.

A Unique Shopping Experience

A lot is done in Hermanus to further sustainable development and to kurb unemployment. Migrant workers from all over Africa end up in Hermanus looking for a better future, often not finding it. Many members of the community have started initiatives to improve the quality of life by skills training, and this shop does just that: it sells products sourced with sustainable development in mind. Support them, in the Hemingways alley I featured a few week ago.

Misty Mountain

Voëlklip Circle, as rarely seen in season: no traffic! This morning as I did the school run at 7-ish, the mists came rolling down the mountain behind the circle. The rays of the sun did not yet reach the road, which made for a really awesome setting. By the way, the little garden on the traffic island is in full bloom and a really magnificent sight!

Blue

Blue is the water, blue is the sky, blue is the mountain. Blue is the lonely fishing trawler at anchor in the New Harbour. A Sunday blue with peace and tranquility ... just what the doctor ordered to chase the blues away!

Daisy, Daisy ...

A field of white daisies! This is what you'll find at the moment behind the Eastcliff Spar. Frequented by guinea fowl and partridge, the field is now strewn with white daisies. The child in you awakens, and before you know it you're in the middle of a floral kingdom, straining not to start rolling around and make tumbleturns!

Flying Solo

Perched on a rock at Gearing's Point, a lonely seagull. I couldn't resist a picture. It creates a feeling of simple serenity and peacefulness, and the best part: it's free, like all really good things in life

The Home Of Fine Books

For avid readers, The Book Cottage is a definite must. Not only is it the home of fine books, it is also a village bookshop with a city selection, according to their logo and I can confirm this: I have always been able to find the newest bestsellers, the rarest books and those books you thought you would have to order from abroad right in the village. Set in one of the few remaining original fishermen's cottages, the Book Cottage is not simply a shop, it's an experience and an artform all in one.

For Bored Husbands

If you have a husband like mine who hates shopping, you will certainly heave a sigh of relief at the sight of this inviting bench outside a shop, just waiting for bored husbands to sit down and forget their sorrows (and their calculations!). Simply lighting up the scene, this little bench made of sticks is truly alluring and I'm sure a great relief to many a wife out shopping.

Theme Day: BIG!

It's theme day, and our topic is big. What better way to participate than to post a picture of one of our biggest villagers, the Southern Right Whale (Eubalaena Australis). Hermanus is the official Whale Capital of the world, with these gentle giants taking up residence in our waters every year from July to January. There are strict policies in place for boat based whale watching, and over the years they have become accustomed to the protection they enjoy here. Whales, like dolphins, communicate through sound. They make clicking, grunting & whistling sounds. When a calf is born after 12 months gestation, tail first, it measures approximately 6 meters. By the time they reach adulthood at the age of 10, the males measure 15 meters and the females 16 meters on average. Their lifespan is estimated at between 90 - 100 years. They present us with a summer performance of fluking, breaching, lobtailing, spyhopping, logging and spouting or blowing. As and when I am fortunate enough to catch their performances on film, I will post photo's.

It's also the official start of SPRING in the Southern Hemisphere, so on that note have a BIG SPRING day!

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Tea For Three?

Tea? This pretty display caught my eye when strolling through town looking for a place to have a cuppa. The intricate patterns on the teacups are simply awesome, and the way they just seem to fit right into the whole setting of window frame & beads seems meticulously planned, although they have probably just been hung at random.

Sunday Bells

On a clear Sunday morning like this, hearing church bells ring just seem so right. This is St. Peter's Anglican Church, situated in the main road. St. Peter's Mission School was built in 1862, the first school in Hermanus, attached to the original church. No longer a school, St. Peter's remains a landmark. On Saturdays from 09h30 they have delightful coffee morning set in the parish garden, and being right in town this is just the place to start the morning's shopping.

Market With A View

Hermanus has a wonderful informal or flea market, where traders set up stalls that sell anything from art to African masks to jewellery to clothes. Located at Gearing's Point, it is arguably the open air market set in the most beautiful place on earth - right on the cliffs, with stunning uninterrupted views of Walker Bay all round. Some of its most frequent visitors are the Southern Right whales, who come to frolic in the deep waters off the cliffs. Young an old take part in the selling and even manufacturing, transferring age old crafts to new generations.

Bonaparte's Gate

I am a huge admirer of Napoleon Bonaparte. Imagine my surprise when one day I heard a rumour that an item which formed a huge part of Napoleon's life was right here in Hermanus ... the gate to the prison where he was held at St. Helena. Rumour has it that this gate is the exact one, brought from St. Helena to South Africa and then installed at a private residence in Hermanus. Apparently it is made of iron, and have been moulded together. When maintenance had to be done on it in Cape Town, it was so heavy that a special system had to be designed to transport it and also to re-install it in Hermanus. Exquisitely beautiful, whether the rumours are true or not.

Spot The Difference

I saw these two identical ladies strolling down the street, and couldn't resist a picture. They are identical, from their hairstyles to their outfits to their shoes, the only difference being that one has a mobile phone and the ohter a handbag. If we had a Chanel shop, I would have wondered if they maybe worked there what with their monotone outfits.

Close The Door!

Seen on a door to a public WC, this photo really needs no further comment. Our baboons are really very used to humans and will not hesitate to enter homes. I have had several experiences with visiting baboons, especially the one who came into our kitchen to try our left-over salad and another one who came into my study to oversee my work, jumping right onto the edge of my desk. Very intimidating indeed!

View From The Top

One of the most splendid scenic drives in Hermanus is certainly Rotary Way, with its entrance next to Mount Pleasant. It curves right to the top of the mountain, with several lookout posts to stop at and savour the beauty that is all around. Surrounded by thousands of different fynbos species, it is a haven of peace and tranquility sitting on one of the benches. On the sea side Hermanus is laid out, and on the mountain side the Hemel en Aarde ("Heaven and Earth") valley spreads out. On the photo, the Maanskynbaai ("Moonshine Bay") estuary can be seen. At the moment the lagoon is open right onto Grotto Beach.

Let There Be Light

The perimeter wall of the Enlighten Education Trust is a true work of art, with beautiful mosaics right round. Look at the exquisite detail of a light bulb, a feature that is repeated in several of the other mosaics, signalling light. It is situated in Swartdam Road, next to Zwelihle. The trust was esthablished in 2002 and several projects and courses are being offered. Please read more about this wonderful initiave at http://www.enlighteneducationtrust.org.za/

Sunday Washing

Sundays seem to be the day to do washing and other household chores for many workers in Hermanus, as they work during the rest of the week. I drove past and could not resist this colourful washing line, with the women sitting in the sun and changing a meagre chore into a happy outdoor activity. Like all South African cities and towns, Hermanus also has an informal settlement area. "Zwelihle", which means "Beautiful Place" in Zulu, could just as well have been the Zulu word for "Hermanus".

Bicycle Made For Two ... Or Three ... Or More

A fun way to explore the village is to take a trip on the official "Tuk-Tuk Bicycle", pedalled around the village by an inventative entrepeneur. Cycling through all the prime spots, this is a huge hit with young & old, and a cue can often be seen waiting their turn.

A Distant Cousin Of Yours, Maybe?

Hermanus is home to several Baboon troops, the most notorious being the Voëlklip ("Bird Rock") troop. At home on the mountain slopes right off the residential area, they have become accustomed to people and can be seen especially on Mondays and Thursdays (refuge removal days), taking a leasurely stroll through the streets, picking through refuge bins and discarding whatever they don't find up to standard right there. Fascinating to look at (from a distance, through binoculars as they are wild animals and not pets), one is quickly reminded of exactly how close to human they really are ...

I Do, I Do, I Do Believe In Fairies

Spring is in the air ... clearly, when you see all the little fairy gardens springing up on every lawn in the village. These little pink flowers abound in their numbers, and delighted garden owners just wake up one morning to find that spring fairies have been hard at work during the night, transforming their lawns with a bright pink display ringing in the approaching spring.

More species of flowers grow in the Hermanus area than in the entire Europe! Hermanus has its own botanical society - maybe one of the members can identify the flower for us & post some more information?

Although it is still freezing cold & dripping wet, at least these little darlings show that warmer days are on their way. Can't wait for summer!

Remember The Past

The Old Harbour Museum is situated in the centre of the village at the site of the old harbour, formerly known as "Visbaai" ("Fish Bay"). The indoor museum houses exhibitions on natural history with whales being the dominant feature, together with aquariums with fishes and inter-tidal creatures and a display of antique fishing paraphernalia. The surrounding cliffs form an excellent spot from which to do land-based whale-watching and huge crowds can often be seen, indicating whales at play right in the bay. At easter times a play commerating the Passion is presented against the stunning backdrop.

Right Up Your Alley

A great part of Hermanus' charm lies in its many little alleys, where hidden treasures await. From books to shoes, from coffee shops to potters' workshops to exclusive boutiques to interior shops, there's something for everyone. A favourite pastime is a leasurely morning stroll through the labyrinth of little streets, browsing and collecting, desiring and dreaming, ending up at an intimate little venue for a thirst quencher. This alley is in the centre of the village, with its entrance next to Hemingways Bookshop. One of my favourites, with a restaurant serving local faire hidden right at the end. It is said that the restaurant is haunted ...

Blue Monday

A Perfect Blue Monday ... 20 degrees, clear blue skies. Today is one of those days that should have been right slap-bang in the middle of December. Moderate to warm temperatures, clear skies, not a breath in the air. A perfect day (maybe not for surfers). What a way to start the week!